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Troon Vineyard is a bit isolated to be sure, but what a spectacular setting, surrounded by the Siskiyou mountains

Biodynamics and Science
General Manager Craig Camp and owners Denise and Bryan White could see the potential at Troon Vineyard in the Applegate Valley in southwestern Oregon. In a career-long involvement with all aspects of wine, Craig had become convinced of the value of biodynamics to produce superior wines showing their place of origin. When Craig, Denise and Bryan took over the operation at Troon in 2017, they decided to take the vineyard into biodynamic certification, but with a twist. They are pursuing full Demeter certification, and they are applying modern scientific methods to understand the changes in the vineyard as they move from Live Certified sustainable to certified organic and biodynamic operation. Craig has been documenting the process in his Wine Camp blog. Highly recommended for more in depth reading and to keep up with progress at the vineyard!

Early in 2018, they began work in earnest with a biodynamic consultant. They started with assessments of the property, including electromagnetic surveys and a series of some 70 pits dug for soil samples. They’ll use this information to guide which varieties they’ll plant in new blocks and also to better manage their existing vineyard blocks. In addition to the soil samples and site surveys, Troon has engaged a company which performs DNA analysis on samples.  They have started with various samples around the property as a baseline and will regularly monitor the microbiologic complexity as the land is transformed through biodynamic farming.

In addition, they are collecting samples of grapes at harvest and will sample the wines throughout fermentation to assess which yeast strains are most active in the naturally occurring fermentation process. The whole approach is to plant the right grapes in the right place so little intervention is required. This low intervention process is followed through vinification and aging to produce wines fit for the dinner table, with a sense of where they are from.

(Click on any photo to start a full size slide show, hit “escape” to return to the post)

We met up with Craig and owners Denise and Bryan at the Troon tasting room. What a beautiful view out the window!

Our first task was to walk out to the heart and soul of a biodynamic vineyard: the compost pile.

Craig explained how compost is the key ingredient in biodynamics. The majority of the biodynamic preparations are applied to the compost pile to increase its’ microbiome

Cow manure from the organic dairy next door is mixed with hay, cuttings, dropped grapes and other material from the property and allowed to ferment. Like any good compost pile, it smells clean and fresh once it gets going!

Grape pomace, stems, seeds, clippings, dropped grapes all go into the compost pile.

Harvest had started at Troon, so after our visit to the compost pile(s), we headed back to see the first fermentations in process. On the way back to the winery, we passed one of the oldest vineyard blocks. It’s planted to cabernet sauvignon, which actually isn’t all that well suited to the place.Still the majestic old vines will be kept.

Some of the original plantings at Troon

Planted in 1972, this vine’s career is longer than mine!

We’re standing in the Troon red wine fermentation area. That’s right, native yeasts are king when you ferment outdoors!

These grapes had just started to ferment naturally, from yeasts on the grape skins and in the air.

Assistant winemaker, Nate Wall, explained how they manage their fermentation process.

White wines are made inside, using the same native yeast principals.

Not a single new barrel in the barrel room. No interest in new oak, only the benefits of older, used oak aging.

Tasting Troon Wines
After our tour, Craig treated us to a tasting out on the patio. If you visit, you can taste here too! With all this talk of biodynamics, compost, natural approaches, you might be concerned that the wines are funky. Not the case! Meticulous attention at every step in the process ensures these wines are pure and clean, reflecting the care in the viticulture and the cellar.  Broadly speaking, I would characterize them as old world in approach, meant to be enjoyed with food. I’m particularly fond of the whole grape ferment (“orange”) riesling and their Cuvee Cot, a malbec wine closer in style to southwest France than Argentina.

A pretty garden setting, with vineyards and mountains as a backdrop.

Troon Vineyard makes a variety of wines, all suited to the local climate.

Take your time enjoying the full range of wines.

Have you heard of skin-fermented white wines, aka “orange” wines? Troon’s whole grape riesling is a great introduction to the genre.

The climate in the Applegate valley is particularly suited to the Rhone varietals. The cool nights ensure plenty of acidity.

Troon’s Zinfandel is cut from a lighter, more refreshing cloth than your typical California example

A late October afternoon at Troon Vineyard in the Applegate Valley in Oregon

Early Morning Harvest at Troon
As it was harvest season, I finished up my visit out in the vineyard to see the early morning vermentino harvest. In addition to all the other care in the vineyard, you can see the grapes are harvested by hand in small bins.

Everywhere you look, you see the Siskiyou mountains in the background.

Fellow blogger, Thea Dwelle, and I had the opportunity to chat with Steve Hall, the head winemaker.

Visiting Troon
Ever since I met Craig Camp at my first Wine Bloggers Conference, I have wanted to visit Troon. You don’t just stumble upon the Applegate Valley: 4 hours drive south from Willamette Valley, 6 hours drive north from San Francisco. On my way out to the 2018 Wine Bloggers Conference in Walla Walla, I took the opportunity to precede the conference with a grand tour of Oregon. I flew into Rogue Valley International, Medford Oregon Airport, a mere 30 minute drive from Troon Vineyard.

While it’s out of the mainstream winery regions, Troon Vineyard in the Applegate Valley in southwest Oregon is well worth your attention. If you have the opportunity, you need to visit! If you’re not quite ready to make the hike yet, Troon has a tasting room up in Carlton in the Willamette Valley.  Even if you’re not in Oregon anytime soon, you can give Troon Vineyard wines a try. They will happily ship some wines to you!

One final note: if you happen to stay overnight in the Applegate Valley, go outside and enjoy the spectacle of a truly dark sky. The stars will grab you!