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If you’re a Northern Rhone fan, a visit to Tain L’Hermitage is well worth your time.  Seeing the land for yourself will show you things you will never learn from a book or an article.  After our morning visit at Jean-Louis Chave, we had a little time to explore before we caught the train back to Lyon.

Vineyards: Hermitage vs. Crozes- Hermitage
Looking at the hill at Hermitage, you will clearly see why it is such a special place.  No level ground, a perfect exposure to the sun and a variety of soils well suited to stress grapevines to their limits.

Hermitage is a hill; no flat ground here.

The Crozes-Hermitage appellation was created to give credit to vineyards immediately adjacent to Hermitage but not quite up to that special location.  Over time, however, the limits were extended far outside the places immediately next to the Hermitage hill.  Don’t get me wrong, I enjoy Crozes-Hermitage wines.  When you see the vineyards, you will know why the wines are available for $20 and not $100+.  There are some Crozes-Hermitage wines that are on Hermitage-adjacent slopes, you just need to search them out.

Crozes-Hermitage includes vast areas of flat ground away from the riverside slopes

Tain L’Hermitage
Tain looks like a fun little town.  Our visit didn’t allow us to linger and explore, but we will certainly return!  There is a nice village square with a beautiful series of fountains at its center.  It’s surrounded by cafés, shops, tasting rooms and a hotel.

Tain L’Hermitage has a nice town square

Chapoutier maintains a nice looking tasting room.

You can visit the Chapoutier tasting room

A nice looking hotel right on the town square if you’re staying overnight.

Le Castel, a nice hotel in the center of Tain L’Hermitage

The Valrhona chocolate factory is a five minute walk from the main square.  They are opening a large visitor center in October 2013.  In September, it looked like they were running a bit late, as the new building still had lots of construction going on!  Visitor center or not, you can stop in the factory store.

ValRhona Chocolate Factory Store!

They have treats for sale and so many samples to try!

Lots of chocolates to purchase and lots of free samples.

Le Mangevins – a Lunch to Remember
If you find yourself in Tain L’Hermitage (or anywhere in the area!), you should definitely get a reservation and enjoy a meal at Le Mangevins.  You will enjoy a lovely bistro style meal with impeccably chosen wines to match. (click on any photo below to view as a slide show)

Le Mangevins: unassuming outside. Note the Michelin Guide sticker (well deserved)

Le Mangevins is a 20 seat bistro; you’ll need reservations

Only a few choices needed, they were all wonderful

House wines…

Entreé: Zucchini blossoms

Entreé wines: St. Peray (Blanc) for me, Crozes-Hermitage Blanc for Julie

Plat: Roast guinea fowl

St. Joseph Rouge for me, Blanc for Julie

Valrhona chocolate dessert with chocolate ice cream – wow!

Condrieu is classic French Northern Rhone Viognier.

If you go, or if you have already visited, I’d love to hear about your experience.  We’ll definitely be returning in the future.