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Winophiles Investigate Fall in France – Rentrée
This month, our French Winophiles writers are dusting off our cool weather recipes to highlight Autumn in France. As of 2023, Julie and I are now living part time in Dijon, France and we are getting accustomed to how things work. For instance, August is the month of “les vacances” (vacations). In central and Northern France, cities are deserted. Literally! Shops, boulangeries, restaurants are all closed for two to four weeks in August. Even our favorite organic butchers and farmers are gone from the Marché. Parking spaces are easy to find, the few open restaurants are easier to make a reservation. Don’t try to get anything done with the French government! Take a look further down in this post for links to my fellow French Winophiles’ posts highlighting the start of autumn.

September is the time for everyone to return from “les vacances”, get back to work and send the children off to school. We see lots of events where people come to find their children’s fall activities, as well as general events for the fall and winter. Coming up with a fall wine and food pairing would be easy were it not for 3 solid weeks of 90+ degree days. Did I mention that very few French apartments have air conditioning (including ours).

Chardonnay for Early Fall Days
In the summer, we crave the refreshing flavors of unoaked or very lightly oaked wines, but once September arrives, we come back to slightly richer varieties, like Chardonnay.

Chanterêves Winery
Chanterêves is one of the leaders among the new guard of Bourgogne vignerons. The winery is owned and run by husband and wife team of Guillaume Bott and Tomoko Kuriyama. They started by making wine from purchased grapes which they still do, however, they acquired 5 hectares (12.5 acres) in 2020 which they farm organically with some unique approaches to spraying. They also are using regenerative techniques including minimizing tilling and utilizing cover crops. Their white wines are vinified in old oak barrels, fermented with native yeasts, minimal filtering, and SO2 is limited to minimal doses during aging, before bottling.

Chanterêves Bourgogne Chardonnay AOC 2017 ($35 online)12.5% abv
Eye: pale gold
Nose: Medium aromas of apple blossoms, ripe apples, ripe peaches, dried apricots, a bit of hay, hints of vanilla and toast.
Mouth: Dry, high acidity, medium body with nice rich texture, medium alcohol, medium flavor intensity, medium plus finish. Flavors echo the aromas with the ripe red apples taking the lead.
Observations: This wine drinks above it’s humble Bourgogne Chardonnay label. While it shows ripe fruit and rich texture, the refreshing high acidity provides excellent balance.

Rentrée Weeknight Dinner
We no longer have school age children, but we still have busy weeknights. At the marché in Dijon, we have access to a wide variety of delicious organic products including saucisse (sausages, not cooked) as well as local produce straight from the farm. Simple mealks taste so good with fresh, local ingredients! I roasted sausages alongside leeks and peapods. We served the sausages over Camargue rice from the southern Rhone as it empties into the Mediterranean. Camargue is also the source of fine sea salt. We mixed sautéed mushrooms into the rice for extra flavor. While the Fallot mustard was missed in the photos, be assured it was well used at the table. Saucisses without mustard is unthinkable! We finished off dinner with a bit of Saint Félicien cheese, a slightly stinky bloomy rind cheese from the Rhone region, a short distance away.

Winophiles Look Forward to Cooler Autumn Days
Take a look below at the ideas my fellow French Winophiles have shared.
• Fall is in the Air by A Day in the Life on the Farm
• Les Petits Farcis Niçois + Two California Chenin Blancs by Culinary Cam
• Mushroom and Herb Omelet with Truffle Salt with Côte des Roses Sauvignon Blanc for Dinner by Our Good Life
• September in France is Rentrée by Food Wine Click!
• Fall Flavors Inspired by France’s Loire Valley: Muscadet and Savennieres Paired with Baked Oysters, Figs, Brie by Wine Predator…. Gwendolyn Alley