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Italian Food, Wine and Travel Explores Super Tuscans
Our Italian Food, Wine and Travel group is digging into Super Tuscans this month. Take a look at the bottom of this post for links to all my fellow bloggers thoughts on the subject!

Two Rebellions Against the Italian DOC System
Italians aren’t exactly the best rule-followers in the world, and Italian winemakers are no exception. The Italian DOC system was established to put some structure around regional Italian wines. In well known regions like Tuscany, a winery could label their wine with the DOC name, like Chianti, if they followed all the rules for grape variety, growing conditions, yield, and winery practices. Sounds great, but this didn’t work for everyone.

One group wasn’t satisfied with the Chianti DOC rules, wanting to produce a more polished and commercially successful wine – these became known as the Super Tuscans. Another group seemed like rebels, but they were most interested in producing truly traditional wines of the region, showing they place they were from. They hated all the chemicals being used in both the vineyard and winery, and they wanted to produce a more natural product – but it didn’t meet with favor from the DOC. Both these groups abandoned the DOC for the less glamorous but less restrictive Toscana IGT.  They are worlds apart!

Super Tuscan Image courtesy of Christies.com (the auction house)

What’s a Super Tuscan and Why None for Me
Simply stated, a Super Tuscan is a red wine from Tuscany (Toscana) made with a blend of grapes which may include traditional Italian grapes along with popular French varieties of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Syrah. They are typically produced in a ripe style and aged in French barriques. Super Tuscans became tremendously popular in the 1980’s and achieved prices far beyond typical Italian wines of the region. To be clear, I think winegrowers ought to produce exactly what they want to produce.  They have every right to run a successful business and make as much profit as they can for all their hard work. These wines are delicious and very popular.

That said, does the world need another Cabernet / Merlot / Syrah / Cabernet Franc?

Those grapes are native to France and wines made from those grapes are renown the world over. In addition, those grapes are the major varieties used to make well known wines in many other geographies including the US, Australia, Chile, and others. Italy has thousands of indigenous grapes. There are a total of 25 principal red grape varieties allowed in the Toscana IGT, the original home of the Super Tuscans. 17 of those grapes are indigenous Italian grapes. There are producers in Toscana who continue to grow native Italian grapes and make their wines in a traditional style. Let’s support them!

So I say “Yes to Italian Toscana IGT with Italian grape varieties aged in traditional fashion,

No to Super Tuscans!”

Let’s support traditional Italian grapes produced in traditional fashion. Also: “Hey you kids, get off my lawn!”

Stumbling Upon the Other Rebels
I’ve been doing some research on natural wines, made from organically grown grapes with zero additions or subtractions in the cellar, save a bit of sulfur at bottling. In doing so, I’ve also been enjoying some natural wines. As part of my research, you understand! I searched for a non-Super Tuscan wine from the Toscana IGT and I stumbled upon one of the other rebels.

Pācina Societa Agricole Semplice is a farm, winery and agritourismo built on the grounds of a 10th century convent. They have a farm with cropland mixed with forest and other habitats. They farm grapes, olives and a variety of grains. Their products include not only wines, but olive oils, spelt, chickpeas and lentils. Their crops have always been farmed organically, and their winemaking follows tradition with indigenous yeast fermentation in concrete tanks, aging in large 500 liter and 17/25 hectoliter (hl) Allier casks. No additions or subtractions, no high technology, no fining or filtering.  Minimal sulfites are used only at bottling. At one time, they labeled their wine Chianti, but they ran into a number of problems with the DOC committee. They eventually decided to just leave the DOC and label their wines as Toscana IGT.

This story became more interesting when I found Pācina was one of the four Italian Natural Wine Rebels highlighted in Jonathan Nossiter’s film Natural Resistance.  You can rent the movie on Amazon Prime, it’s well worth your time if you’re at all interested in natural wines!

Naturally produced from indigenous Italian grapes, this is the flavor of Toscana!

Pācina Toscana IGT 2013 ($30 at Henry & Son or online here) 13.5%abv
The grapes in this wine are Sangiovese 95%, Canaiolo/Ciliegiolo 5%
Eye: Slightly hazy medium ruby
Nose: Clean, medium+ intensity aromas of ripe dark fruit: blueberries, blackberries, prunes, pine needles, leather, a touch of vinegar. Julie says:”smells Italian”
Mouth: Dry, medium+ intensity flavors with medium acidity, pronounced ripe but slightly rough tannins, medium+ body, medium+ finish, medium alcohol. Flavors follow the nose.
Conclusions: Overall, a good quality wine, rich and quite rustic. Enjoyable, not polished or elegant. Drink now, not suitable for aging. That said, I enjoy rustic wines very much and like this wine, especially with our medium-rare grilled steak.

Rustic and quite tannic, Pācina was delicious with our medium-rare grilled steak

Super Tuscan Posts from Italian Food Wine and Travel Group
Whether you’re for Super Tuscans or against, I hope you’ll enjoy the posts from my fellow Italian Food, Wine and Travel group. We’d be happy to have you join our chat on Saturday June 27 from 10-11am CDT. Just search out the #ItalianFWT hashtag on Twitter. See you then!

• Naming Rights + Super Tuscans |  We get the scoop from our host at L’Occasion.
• Super Tuscans, Take-Out Pizza, and a Spicy Summer Salad | This post comes to you from the kitchen magician behind Culinary Adventures with Camilla.
• Super Tuscans: What’s It All About? | This question will be answered by the founder of #ItalianFWT, VinoTravels.
• A Stop at Brancaia and a Pizza Night | A perfect combo from California’s own Somm’s Table.
• Super rating, super price – Is this Super Tuscan super? | The question will be answered in full by My Full Wine Glass.
• Have You Tried These Super Tuscans? | Get the opportunity to explore with The Wining Hour.
• There’s no need to Fear, Super Tuscans are here! | Hear the heroic call from Our Good Life.
• Are Super Tuscans still relevant and worth my time and money?| Find out all there is to know with Crushed Grape Chronicles.
• Cooper’s Hawk: A Great Concept and a Super Super Tuscan | Get the inside scoop on this treat from A Day In the Life on the Farm.
• I Colazzi and a Big Ol’ Steak | Don’t miss this outstanding combo from Joy of Wine.
• No Super Tuscans for Me! | The point of view from Food Wine Click! is super clear.
• Super Tuscans: Keep Your Sassicaia, I’ll take the Sangiovese | A message from Wine Predator to all readers.
• Super Tuscan Is All About The Name, Not In The Wine | According to an Italian wine expert, Grapevine Adventures.
• Looking Beyond the Name Super-Tuscans | Insight from Avvinare that goes deeper than the title.
• Let’s Talk Super Tuscans. Plus, a Super Pairing: I Sodi di San Niccolò and Pasta with Scallops and Shrimp in a Tomato Mushroom Sauce | A conversation starter from The Wine Chef.