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French Winophiles Return to Anjou-Saumur
Back in 2016, the French Winophiles took a multi-month virtual cruise down the Loire river, stopping in each of the major sub-regions. My prior posts are here for Central, Touraine, Anjou-Saumur, and Nantais. This month, we’re revisiting wines of Anjou and Saumur. Take a look further down in this post for links to my French Winophiles buddies’ posts!

The Loire river runs from the center of France west to the coast. Anjou (in purple) and Saumur (in blue) form one of the major sub-regions. Map courtesy of www.allfranceinfo.com

The Wines of Anjou and Saumur
Loire Valley wines in Anjou and Saumur offer something for every wine drinker. As is the case in much of Europe, wines are named for the community they are from, not by the grape name.  Here are a few of the names you might look for on store shelves in the states:

• Crémant de Loire – sparkling wine made in the traditional method. Crémant de Loire wines can be made all throughout the Loire Valley. Wonderful sparkling wines, they are often available at decidedly non-Champagne prices.
• Savennières – rich white wine made from Chenin Blanc grapes. Savennieres is always a dry wine, and the Chenin Blanc guarantees bright, lively acidity. However, the grapes grown here can achieve full ripeness, so the wines are rich and flavorful.
• Rosé d’Anjou or Rosé de Loire – in contrast to their Provencal couisins, Loire valley rosé wines are often off-dry, containing just a bit of sweetness. Not cloying, these wines are refreshing, they just have a touch of sweetness.
• Saumur, Saumer-Champigny – earthy red wines made primarily from Cabernet Franc.
• Coteaux du Layon – some areas surrounding the Loire have conditions which promote botrytis (noble rot). Coteaux du Layon wines are sweet dessert wines which often have botrytis notes (this is a good thing!)

Domaine du Closel Savennières AOC  “La Jalousie”

Domaine du Closel Savennières AOC  “La Jalousie” 2014 ($30 at France 44 or online here) 13%abv
Domaine du Closel employs a mix of tradition and innovation in their approach to their wines. They are certified organic by Ecocert and biodynamic by Demeter. In the cellar, the wines are fermented with native yeast, dosed with minimal sulfur. They have also engaged in scientific studies of the geology of the Savennières region. If you ever get to the region, they accept visitors.

Eye: Clear, deep gold with medium tearing.
Nose: Clean, medium intensity aromas. Fresh, very ripe honeydew melon, apricots, ginger, orange peel. Sweet floral aromas of honeysuckle. In the background, candle wax, beeswax, lanolin
Mouth: Dry, medium+ flavor intensity. Rich, plush body with abundant high acidity. Definite flavors of botrytis, however the wine is totally dry. Medium+ body, medium alcohol. Flavors echo the aromas with very ripe melon, apricots, orange peel, honeysuckle. Medium+ finish with lingering botrytis notes of apricots, orange peel, ginger.

Chateau Yvonne Saumur Champigny AOC “L’ile Quatre Sous”

Chateau Yvonne Saumur Champigny AOC “L’ile Quatre Sous” 2017 ($27 at France 44 or online here) 12.5% abv
Chateau Yvonne is certified organic and employs biodynamic farming. Wines are fermented with native yeasts. This wine is fermented and aged in concrete.

Eye: Clear, medium ruby with a definite purple edge. Medium legs with medium staining
Nose: Clean, medium intensity. Red fruits, fresh cranberries, strawberries, bright barely ripe cherries. Freshly cut green pepper lends a vegetal note mixed in with the red fruit.
Mouth: Dry, medium+ intensity. Medium body, lean texture with medium alcohol. Medium+ acidity with medium tannins. The palate shows bright red fruits, herbal tarragon and vegetal bright green pepper notes. Oak is not noticeable in flavors but a soft edge to the texture indicates some time in old, neutral barrels. Nice medium finish with lingering flavors of bright fresh red fruits with herbal and vegetal notes behind.

A rich yet racy white and a mid-bodied red both pair nicely with smoky rabbit in mustard.

NOT the Easter Bunny
In the US, many people somehow equate eating rabbit with the Easter Bunny (I should know, I married one of those people). I equate rabbit with all the losses in our back yard bushes and trees over the winter, and the fact I need to protect my little herb and tomato garden like Fort Knox. I’m grateful those sentiments don’t seem to travel across the ocean, as rabbit is a typical dish one will find in France and Italy. Julie was in Chicago for a girls’ weekend, so I took the opportunity to make a ceramic grill version of rabbit with mushrooms and mustard. This dish pairs equally well with white wine and red wine from Anjou-Saumur!

Some Great Posts from fellow French Winophiles
and if you’re around on Saturday morning, July 20, jump on to our chat on Twitter at 10am CDT. Just look for the hashtag #winophiles.

• Cindy, of Grape Experiences, gives us A Taste of the Loire: Domaine Filliatreau Saumur-Champigny 2015 and Sauteed Duck Breasts with Wild Mushrooms.
• Jeff, of FoodWineClick!, serves NOT the Easter Bunny with Wines from Anjou-Saumur.
• Payal, of Keep the Peas, offers up Angevin-oisserie: Chenin Blanc from Anjou.
• Jane, of Always Ravenous, shares What to Pair with Loire Valley Anjou-Saumur Wines.
• Wendy, of A Day in the Life on the Farm, pairs Korean Pork Tenderloin with Cab Franc from Saumur.
• Gwendolyn, of Wine Predator, is Off to Loire: le P’tit Domaine Saumur Champigny and a Tritip Summer Salad.
• Linda, of My Full Wine Glass, says to Make ‘room for Saumur Champigny from the Loire.
• Camilla, of Culinary Adventures with Camilla, shares Some Quail, Lamb, and Two Rabbits with Wines from Anjou-Saumur.

Chestnut mushrooms from R&R Cultivation

Lean, high in protein. Rabbit really should be a staple here. Sigh.