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Whenever you see cow horns, you know Biodynamics will be the topic

Biodynamic Bordeaux
To quote Kermit the Frog, “It’s not easy being green”. If your vineyard is located in a Mediterranean climate with dry summers and warm, dry breezes, you have few worries. Organic viticulture is pretty easy, as you have few challenges with mildew, rot, pests, disease.

If, on the other hand, your vineyard is located in a Maritime climate where rain, frost, hail are threats all during the growing season, you’ve got your hands full. Mildew is a constant threat after every rain. Rain brings more green growth (not just the grapevines) and more bugs. Taking on organic viticulture or biodynamic viticulture can be a daunting task, and in Bordeaux, few have taken up the challenge.

Find your way to Chateau Fonroque in Saint Émilion among the other farms

Inviting entry for a tour and tasting

Château Fonroque in Saint Émilion has taken up the organic/biodynamic challenge. The estate was in the Mouiex family since 1931, and under the guidance of Alan Mouiex since 2001.  Chateau Fonroque has 17.5 hectares (about 38 acres) of vineyard area, which is large for Saint Émilion. Alan became interested in more sustainable approaches to grape growing and immediately started to move toward organic viticulture. They achieved organic certification in 2006 and biodynamic certification in 2008. In fact, they were the first Grand Cru Classé winery in Saint Émilion to do so.

I had the opportunity to visit in April 2017 to see for myself biodynamics in action in Bordeaux. (click on any photo for full size slideshow, “escape” to exit)

Caroline has worked at Chateau Fonroque since 2002. She was very knowledgable and a great guide

A typical (chemical) spraying program in Bordeaux would include about 7 treatments (spray) in a season. Organic/biodynamic approaches need more careful scrutiny and will require more, about 15 treatments per season.

Average age of the vines is 35 years

I visited in early April, just after budbreak.

The vineyard is coming alive from winter slumber

It feels as though you can watch them grow!

Biodynamics is not fancy, only basic equipment is needed. It’s all in the herbal preparations

They were mixing the horsetail spray (no. 508) when I visited. The preparation is sprayed in the vineyard to prevent fungus.

After visiting the vineyard, we went into the winery. They were reorganizing after hosting a Biodyvin meeting of biodynamic wineries all around Europe the week before.

Don’t mess if it works. The concrete fermentation tanks are 60 years old. The building is being preserved. Take a look at those roof beams!

Old vertical press

There is always some activity in the winery, moving barrels today.

Château Fonroque Saint Émilion Grand Cru Classé, a biodynamic Bordeaux winery

Chateau Fonroque Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé AOC 2014 (25 € at the winery, or online in the US)
Eye: Clear, medium ruby with a ruby edge.
Nose: Clean, medium- intensity. Herbal aroma, fruit is a bit quiet, ripe blueberries
Mouth: Dry, a bit austere. Medium acidity, medium- tannins. Nice strawberries and blueberries, herbal mixture. Nice medium length finish. Not flashy, but a very enjoyable, high quality wine.

Set Up Your Own Visit
If you have the opportunity to visit the Bordeaux region, make sure you allow time to visit the beautiful Right Bank. Saint Émilion is a beautiful town and the surrounding wineries are worth a visit! Like most wineries in Europe, you should plan ahead and schedule your visit here. During your visit you’ll find that biodynamics isn’t voodoo or magic, it’s just natural farming!